Quick Bites: Gluten-Free Lucca, Italy
- Alina
- Mar 14
- 7 min read
We’ve visited many towns and cities throughout northern and central Italy, but nowhere has captured my husband’s heart as much as Lucca. It’s definitely one of my favorite places in Tuscany, and a great base for exploring since it’s only an hour and a half’s drive west of Florence and half an hour north of Pisa.
One of the more well-preserved medieval towns in Italy, Lucca’s walled city feels like stepping back in time. Yet unlike other more touristy medieval towns in Italy, this town is still locals first, tourists second. Upon entering the city, you pass through parks filled with local families playing soccer and chasing after little ones riding around on training wheels. Shops are owned by local artisans and stocked with high-quality, handmade goods you can’t find anywhere else, a welcome reprieve from the mass-produced tourist wares you often find in other cities. Cobbled streets surrounded by stone buildings and ancient, tree-lined walls glow in the soft light of the setting sun. And perhaps surprising for a city with this lovely small-town feel, there are bakeries, restaurants, and gelato options that can safely cater to medically necessary gluten-free diets.
Sound like the type of place you’d like to visit on your next vacation? Then read on for our short list for a celiac-safe, gluten-free stop in Lucca, Italy.
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Restaurants
Recommended Eats
Safety: ★★★★☆
Staff are very knowledgeable about cross contact to safely accommodate patrons with celiac disease.
Pros
They can make a gluten-free version of their classic tasting menu, and it stays very true to the original
In addition to whatever you order off of the main menu, they also provide gluten-free bread, airy rice crisps, and creative amuse bouche
Really fun and unique gluten-free dessert options
Waiters are very knowledgeable on allergens in each dish, as well as cross contact precautions taken by the chefs
They can handle multiple allergies and intolerances, in addition to celiac
Cons
The menu wasn’t marked, so the wait staff will have to talk you through recommended options and available modifications
Very pricey, but well worth it and befitting the quality you’d expect from a restaurant that’s received a Michelin star — worth the splurge, and still much less expensive than you’d find for the same quality restaurant in the U.S.!
Taste: ★★★★★
Previously a Michelin star restaurant (only removed by Giglio's own request), this is the top of the pack, high quality meal Italy is known for. The risotto in particular was one of the best we’ve ever had in the world — its umami and depth of flavor is unmatched, and made even more impressive considering how simple it appeared at face value. Their mini sardine sandwich-type amuse bouche was scrumptious as well, and I don’t even like sardines typically! And there couldn’t have been a better close to a splendid evening than their cherry meringue dessert with gold foil on top. You’ve got to try it!
Must tries: Run with the tasting menu — you’ll be glad you did
Overall Experience: ★★★★★
This restaurant is definitely a big reason why we love Lucca. The outdoor seating is tucked beside an adorable plaza that’s perfect for people watching (and sometimes a market, if you’re lucky with your timing!). The food was excellent, and the staff were wonderful at making us feel like we were getting the full Michelin experience and not missing out on anything due to allergies. We also loved Giglio’s laid-back, understated elegance, with none of the uncomfortable stiffness you often find at Michelin restaurants. I hope we can return one day!
Note: We highly recommend making a reservation (mention celiac in the reservation note too!), as they are typically booked well in advance. If you’re driving in, come early to find parking — it took us over an hour to find any near the walled section of the city (see the Tourist Attractions section below for parking tips).
Safety: ★★★★½
Accredited by the AIC (Italian Celiac Association); staff are very knowledgeable about cross contact to safely accommodate patrons with celiac disease.
Pros
Waiters were knowledgeable about what could be made gluten-free, specifically calling out what was technically gluten-free but wouldn’t be safe for me due to cross contact (Ex. chocolate mousse). They also double checked with the chef as needed for anything they weren’t 100% sure about.
We were given complimentary gluten-free bruschetta and fried polenta in place of the regular bread
The chef/owner was so sweet and friendly, and came by to check up on us multiple times to make sure I was enjoying the meal. He didn’t seem to do this with any other tables, so it must be an extra level of care and attention he pays to his celiac diners!
Cons
Slightly more limited menu for those eating gluten-free, but still a decent assortment of options overall
No celiac-safe desserts other than fresh berries
Taste: ★★★★☆
While the bruschetta wasn’t the best I’ve had and the pork dish wasn’t quite right for me, the fried polenta was yummy and I quite enjoyed the pheasant and its side of scrumptious potatoes. I’d consider asking the staff for their recommendations to ensure you get the tastiest option(s).
Overall Experience: ★★★★★
We loved the decor of this restaurant — very cozy and homey, with so much character thanks to the assortment of brass cookware and instruments hanging from the ceiling, as well as flowers and candles on the tables. On top of that, the hospitality was truly first class and a great demonstration of how special a multi-generational family restaurant can be; the fact that the chef kindly checked up on us multiple times really made us feel the love and like my celiac disease wasn’t even the slightest bit of a burden. If you want to feel truly immersed in the close-knit, small-town culture of Lucca, this is the place to go.
Note: Consider making a reservation, just in case, but when we were running late due to a parking fiasco, they were kind enough to shift our reservation back so we could still make it in.
Additional Researched Options
You can find our full list of researched restaurants in Lucca, including some we didn’t get a chance to visit ourselves, on Find Me Gluten Free here** (get $5 off FMGF Premium here). In particular, I want to call out two dedicated gluten-free options that sound fantastic — Starbene Senza Glutine, a bakery, and I Gelati di Piero, a gelato shop.
**Please note, all places on this list were well-reviewed for celiac safety at the time of our visit. We were only able to visit the above guide restaurants ourselves, though, so if venturing to any places on the larger app list, be sure to read the reviews and do your own due diligence before visiting. And although waiters could communicate with us in English at the restaurants we visited, we still recommend considering an Italian allergy card like those from EqualEats (get 10% off with coupon code CELIACBYTHEBAY) to ensure you can clearly communicate your needs.
Food Safety Tips
Tourist Attractions and Activities
Lucca is such a special town, and we can’t wait to come back and explore more of it. In terms of hotels, while we stayed at an Airbnb in the nearby beach town of Viareggio (also lovely, but not many options for celiac-safe restaurants), we’d recommend lodging near the walled portion of the city for ease of access. Once you’ve got the food and lodgings sorted, here are some fun attractions and activities to consider in Lucca as you’re planning your trip.
Note: If you are driving in, we recommend parking at the Parcheggio Palatucci. The first night we arrived, we spent an hour driving around the walls trying to park in one of the many tiny but full lots, and almost gave up and left until we found this lot. We went straight to the same lot the next night, and life was much calmer.
Culture It Up
Step back in time with a walk atop the city walls
Lucca’s Old Town is one of the most well-preserved medieval towns in Italy, and perhaps its most unique feature is its tree-lined promenade atop the city’s stone walls. The current walls were originally built in the 16th century, and have since become a beautiful,well-paved walk that provides a lovely vantagepoint to enjoy the Tuscan countryside and the town itself. There are also bike rentals available.
A formal 18th century garden and palace sure to be popular for nature, architecture and movie enthusiasts alike. Palazzo Pfanner was showcased in the film “The Portrait of a Lady” with Nicole Kidman, and now includes a museum that houses 19th century medical and surgical tools. Tickets are available for the grounds and palace/museum individually or combined.
The historic birthplace of Puccini (the famous Italian composer), the home has been turned into a museum that houses antique furniture, a piano he used to compose his pieces, as well as costumes used in his operas. Tickets must be purchased for entry.
Tickets are required to enter the church, wherein you can see not only the cathedral, belltower, and baptistry, but also a museum and archeological site. It’s also nice to simply walk along the outside if you don’t have time to go inside.
Check out their annual concert lineup — it seems to draw some big names! When we went in 2024, Ed Sheeran and Sam Smith were playing, and in 2025, Bryan Adams and Alanis Morissette are playing.
Get Your Shop On
Via Fillungo and Piazza Anfiteatro
This is Lucca’s main shopping street, in which you’ll also find a fun, oval-shaped plaza surrounded by the tree-lined city walls.
Via S. Giralamo
We really enjoyed wandering down this street and walking into all the little shops. In particular, we found lovely handmade headbands and hair pieces at Silvia Serra Modisteria and impressive handcrafted olive wood pens at Vibrisse Art Studio.
Piazza del Giglio
There were the remnants of a ceramics and antique furniture market when we went to Ristorante Giglio, but it appeared to close down pretty early, so be sure to get there before early evening if you want to check it out! The piazza also houses a statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi, a celebrated figure of Italian unification.
***Date of travel: May 2024
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